I put on the kettle. I need a tea,
as the kettle boils I notice a photo on the wall it’s Portugal her favourite place to ride.
I love this photo, she is so vibrant, so alive,
I close my eyes, I go back to the day of that photograph
I can smell the ocean, I can hear the roar of the crowd.
The memory takes my breath away
I hear the roar of the waves, I set my binoculars.I spot her.
She is ready to ride. Through binoculars I watch the wave pick her up she is just a speck in the ocean, barely visible.
The wave is taking her higher, I catch my breath as I notice her stand on the board and arch her body setting up for the ride.
She arches her back slightly and “drops in”
She is riding so fast down the wall of the wave.
As she “drops in” the crowd roar in excitement..
Someone yells ITS A 22!!
Binoculars set I watch in awe of her tiny 5ft frame on an 8 ft 4 inch long board slice weave and carve her way diwn the wall
She disappears I hold my breath, I am screaming her name!! I am terrified!!
I am searching through the binoculars I see nothing of her at all
I look toward the tower, they are excited and pointing
They found her!!!
i turn the binoculars back to the ocean
Scanning, scanning praying
Then I see the tip of her yellow board she is still riding!!
She is riding at great speed, another wall of water is building up behind her
I hold my breath as I watch her weave and carve, then steer
her board towards the “barrel “
The wall of water with it’s thundering sound is trying it’s hardest to take her down!!
She lowers her body and enters the barrel,
57 seconds still in the barrel
1 minute 4 seconds still in the barrel.
Just at that moment of thinking that the ocean has swallowed her!!she exits the barrel and the spectators go wild
Yes!! she is badass and in control
She rode that board right to the end
Jetski brings her back to the cheers and high-fives from the Surfing fraternity and spectators
She is picked up and shoulder carried to the arms of her lover who wraps her exhausted aching body in her arms and cries
I am beyond proud, because this badass surfer is my mumma bear!